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One of the joys of Paris is its eternal beauty, and nowhere is this better seen from than the ninth floor rooftop of Printemps, one of the two Grand Magasins which can trace their history back to the 1930s. The panoramic vistas span the whole city, with landmarks at every turn. To the south west the Eifel Tower, to the north west the Sacré Coeur, to the west the Arc de Triomphe and directly south, the Opera Garnier. One of the best finds of Monday morning, it really is worth making the trip up the endless escalators to the open terrace. If you’re at all interested in photography, your efforts will be rewarded.

A Metro out to La Défense provided photographic opportunities of a different kind. The largest purpose-built business district in Europe, the site traces it roots back to 1958, and with the exception of the Montparnasse Tower, all of Paris’ skyscrapers are out in the 400-acre area.

The Grande Arche is of course the centrepiece; the 108m-high structure is so placed that it forms a secondary axis with the two highest buildings in Paris, the Eiffel Tower and the Montparnasse Tower, while the top of the building houses an exhibition gallery. The sides house government offices. With such a stunning and imposing yet impossibly modern landmark, the La Défense site is yet another area of Paris worth a visit.

From north west to north east, this afternoon was spent in Parcs des Buttes Chamont, a public garden which is the third largest of its kind in the city. Established in the 1860s, the 61-acre historic park boasts several cliffs and bridges, a grotto with a 20-metre high waterfall, a lake, and several English and Chinese gardens.

At its centre is the belvedere of Sybil, a temple homage which sits on top of a 30-metre high rocky island peak, surrounded by a lake. Vastly different in nature to the most well-known public space in Paris – the Tuileries near the Louvre – plenty of Parisians use the park for recreational activities. From lounging on the lakeside to jogging though the tree-lined avenues, it’s all done here.

It was back to Printemps to end the daylight hours as we started them. Tea under the shop’s 1920s cupola has long been a Paris highlight, and although Nik and Geoff assured me that it was better when the restaurant concession was under previous ownership, it still felt special.

It’s not cheap, but with mirrors strategically-placed on the tables, the stained glass dome shines in its ornate setting. You wouldn’t believe it was taken away in 1939 for fear of war damage, and restored back to its former glory in 1973. Understated beauty and glamour shimmering in the spring sunshine, it sums up Paris perfectly, and was a fitting end to our two-day dash around the city.

‘Paris has woven its magical spell on me, and I can’t wait for us to go back.’ That’s how I concluded my last Paris entry, and back we are for a relaxing two-and-a-bit days before we head south to Lyon. A mix-up over some ballet tickets mean that we won’t see any performances at Charles Garnier’s beautiful and grand opera house, but it won’t matter.

We’ve already seen so much more and so many different parts of this beautiful city than we did two years ago. Arriving Saturday, we sped across the city after dumping our bags at the hotel to watch Eurovision 2010 in the Happi Bar, in Beaubourg (Israel got the biggest cheer of the night), before shooting back to the hotel to catch the scoring and a late night.

This morning dawned cloudy, and a morning walk to meet Geoff took us through meandering streets and passageways lined with market stalls on the way from Gare du Nord. The Parisians seem to love setting up makeshift stalls and selling their unwanted possessions in the back street boulevards – the areas really do look like garage sales but on a bigger scale.

Vintage Kylie records were bypassed due to restrictions carrying them around the city and getting them home in a full bag, but it was a bustling and charming diversion. Even though we had no ballet tickets, we still made it to the opera house in time to admire yet another piece of stunning Paris architecture, before settling into Brioche Dorée for a pastry and coffee breakfast.

Meeting Geoff at the Louvre, we decided to cross the river and walk up the hill on the east of the city passing St Germain des Pres and the Pantheon to find some lunch. Rue Mouffetard was the destination, and after walking for what seemed like ages in ill-fitting and new shoes, we found La Bistrot Gourmand, where we feasted on three courses for €9.

A bargain, and heartily full and rested, we walked back through the Latin Quarter and the Left Bank, passing the Musee D’Orsay, en route to Citroën’s C42 flagship showroom on the Champs Elysees. Neighbouring Renault a few doors away got a visit, too, and after a quick freshen up back at the hotel, we ventured out for an evening supper.

Chartier proved to be too good to be true, and an awful lot of people had heard good reports about it, too. The queue for the restaurant was out onto the street, so we abandoned plans to eat well but cheaply, and found a local pizzeria instead. Pizzeria Valponi was buzzy, its food was tasty, and nestled in the shadow of the Grand Magazins, it was only a short Metro ride back to the hotel. A busy first day, and one that my feet concluded we’d done too much walking for, but it feels good to be back.