Today was a day of contrasts, and one for exploring the north coast of Cornwall. There were almost a handful of places we wanted to visit, so we packed the car after another enjoyable and sunny patio breakfast, and headed off. First stop, Jamaica Inn.
Made famous by legendary author Dame Daphne du Maurier’s novel of the same name, Jamaica Inn has stood on the moors between Bodmin and Launceston since 1750. Previously a coaching inn, travellers at the time would have stayed in Jamaica’s dark, dimly-lit bedrooms, which were also used to hide away all sorts of smugglers’ treasure, taken from the Cornish and Devon coasts. In a synchronistic twist, I began to read the book at the start of the break, and so was keen to see if the modern-day incarnation was as dark and brooding as its fictional counterpart seems.
Reading Jamaica Inn at Jamaica Inn
Disappointingly, the real Jamaica Inn is now somewhat of a tourist trap, cashing in on du Maurier’s legacy. A museum tells the tale of the great storyteller in tableaux, light, and sound, and boasts a memorabilia room including her supposed writing desk. The Smuggler’s and Pedlar’s Bars provide further links to the fictional story of Mary Yellan and the dark and grotesque characters that surround her.
I can quite imagine that the place was the real-life inspiration for the novel (du Maurier having stopped there), but on a sunny September morning, its unforgiving reputation seemed ill-deserved. On a dark and dank winter’s night, though, things could be quite different…
A fleeting walk around the car park and posing for a few pictures, meant that we on our way again soon, heading out on the A30 to Newquay. Traditionally the surfers’ paradise, we expected lots of golden sands and breaking waves, and while these were all there, so were the many bars and clubs that make up the boarders’ lifestyle.
Fishing boats in Newquay harbour
Visitors to the town can enjoy over 10 beaches; some backed by steep cliffs or dunes, others with holiday homes and pools, and another looked upon by Newquay’s harbour. While I doubt the latter is as scenic as most of the others, it was filled with small fishing boats, and was very much off the tourist patch. Leading to a very peaceful coastal walk, we left the surfers to enjoy their Volkswagens and loud clothes, and paced along the cliff edge to the headland, stopping to take the occasional picture, and look out across the Atlantic.
The Bedruthan Steps
Revisiting past memories, we drove east to the Bedruthan Steps to enjoy a tasty (if windy) picnic. A dramatic coastline with massive rock stacks, I think has been the most beautiful place we’ve visited so far. The ‘Steps’ are cliffs which have been systematically eroded over many years, leaving vast columns of volcanic rock stacks. As we walked down the rock staircase which has been carved out of the cliff face, and with the sun beating down on the golden sands, the true beauty of the columns and the spectacular landscape which surrounded them unfolded.
The Bedruthan Steps flex their mussels
Each rock was covered in millions of mussels, which cannot be seen from the top of the mainland cliff. With their dusky matt and often wet shells glinting in the sun’s rays, they contrasted well with the greenery atop some of the stacks, and the sparkling clear water that filled perfectly-formed rockpools, at the bottom of these rock giants. It really is a spectacular place to visit, and on an almost perfect afternoon like today, could easily pass as a tropical desert island, with the gentle waves lapping the shore.
The Bedruthan Steps shoreline
Many pictures were taken, but it was soon time to journey to our next and final destination. Just as other places in the county, Padstow seems to offer visitors the full harbour, fishing boats, and picturesque scenery experience. Most famously home to the establishments of seafood chef Rick Stein, we enjoyed walking the beach and bay-lined coastal path, and sharing our afternoon tea with inquisitive sparrows.
The coastal path at Padstow
On the west side of the Camel estuary, the town is still a working fishing port, and this afternoon at least, I could imagine staying as day turned into night, and enjoying an alfresco dinner in one of the many pastel-hued pubs and restaurants that line the pretty walled harbour, with its still blue water and warm temperatures. And, as we sat and enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere, we sat and remembered what we has seen, what we done with the day, and planned a much less busy day for tomorrow.
