Archive for the ‘London’ Category

Russell Court, London

Monday, December 8th, 2008


Imposing: the corner of the 1930s Russell Court, London, looking west

There are over 35 Art Deco buildings in London, and while they are sprinkled around, most seem to be in  the western half of the city’s centre. Walking to Covent Garden to have our post-wedding breakfast at Upper Deck, the café  in the Transport Museum yesterday morning, we chanced upon one of them, Russell Court, on Woburn Place.

My flat in Ipswich is part of an eighteen-strong purpose-built development in three blocks of six built in the late 1930s. I thought that was unique in itself; at the time the apartments must have been quite luxurious – they’re certainly large, quiet, well-made, and eclipse anything modern. But they have nothing on the scale of Russell Court.

A development of over eighty apartments over eight floors, and made of dark red brick, there almost definitely some similarities with my place in Ipswich. Rows of crittal bay-fronted windows give way to two concrete column entrances. Russell Court is certainly obvious, imposing and grand in scale, but yet somehow glamorous, too.

Around the corner in Coram Street there’s yet more flats, just as equally packed in and with as beautifully stylish a façade as their relatives a few yards away. One of the best aspects of the development, though, is the Coram Street car park, which is tucked away underground, and with 90 spaces, provides out of sight and off-street parking for £19.00 per day.


Close-up: rows of crittal windows on the corner of 1930s Russell Court

Now run by NCP, dark and open-mouthed tunnel must be famous for something other than swallowing cars for combustion engine powered commuters. I’d heard about it before, and seen it on the television, but I could turn up nothing noteworthy about it or Russell Court on the internet. The brickwork above the entrance curves around in a gentle fashion, and rows upon rows of tall windows look out onto the sun in the west.

A forecourt and filling station used to reside on the corner of the car park entrance, at the junction of Coram Street and Woburn Place. Well-to-do motorists used to have to drive into the car park over part of the filling station forecourt, and there have been many previous planning applications to change the building just in front of the entrance, all of which have been refused.

Rightly so, too. An underrated and spectacular display of 1930s architecture, Russell Court and its underground car park are more deserving of a more sparkling and less ordinary history that seems to have eluded it. Of course, if you should know of a more glamorous previous life in the history of the development, please post a comment below.

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Luke and Emilie’s wedding

Monday, December 8th, 2008

You know you’re somewhere special when there’s a string quartet, a list of presidents on the grand staircase wall, and lots of plaster stuccoed pillars. On Saturday we found ourselves at the Royal Society of Arts in John Adam Street, London, by invitation of Luke and Emilie to celebrate their wedding.

It was very special day. There really couldn’t be a much better venue, and as the families had almost hired it out exclusively, the guests had the run of the place. The ceremony itself was held in the Grand Room – which was as grand as it sounded – and included beautifully romantic readings in both English and French, as Emilie’s mother’s side of the family descend from across the Channel.

From there, there were pre-dinner drinks in the vaults, and then the celebratory meal in the Benjamin Franklin room upstairs. The meal was delicious; just the right amount of each course to make you feel that you’d enough, but also to make you look forward to the next dish that followed.

And what a feast it was. There was thinly-sliced tuna carpaccio with a pickled walnut dressing to start, pork and cider sausages with parsley mash and a redcurrant jus to follow, and baked lemon curd cheesecake with kumquat marmalade to finish. Coffee and chocolates were the refreshments and palette cleansers of choice.

Washed down with lots of white wine and champagne, the wedding cakes broke with English traditions and looked delicious, too. One was made of cheese rounds, and along with a traditional French croquembouche (a dessert of pyramid crème-filled pastry puffs decorated with a caramel glaze), was enjoyed at the after-dinner reception.

Just before coffee, we had memory-tinged speeches by Emilie’s dad, and Luke’s best men, all of whom reflected on the individuals that made up the happy couple, and the new pairing that they made together, as well as telling us some of the humorous tales that had made up their four-year story so far.

The waiting staff’s timing was impeccable, and the whole event was very well run, the RSA’s staff just moving things along at exactly the right pace. Full of bubbly, food, and wine, we said our goodbyes before the disco (to Kathryn ’s chagrin) and left just after 10pm, to wend our way back to the hotel at King’s Cross.

Stepping out into the chilly night air, we strolled though Covent Garden, stopping to take a look at the LED icicle lights. Reflecting on what a special day the happy couple and guests alike had enjoyed, we thought about the twists and turns that had brought both us and our now married friends to the places where we all now are, more than happy where that place is.

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Saint Etienne at the Queen Elizabeth Hall

Monday, September 15th, 2008

Nothing Can Stop Us: Saint Etienne vocalist Sarah Cracknell
Nothing Can Stop Us: Saint Etienne vocalist Sarah Cracknell (photo courtesy of simbenia)

I love the Ets. Have done since the mid-1990s. But, I was a bit of a late adopter. Bob, Pete and Sarah first broke onto the scene in 1990 (strictly speaking Sarah joined the boys in 1991) and they have been making sunny-skied, joyous, and melodic pop music ever since. Never stepping across the line to become ‘mainstream’ (and we, the fans, love them for that), their supporters are a loyal bunch and crave the group’s latest releases and far too few live performances.

We joined another 898 of them last night at the at the Queen Elizabeth Hall on the South Bank, to see the group who are so engrained in London culture that they almost are London, for the closing gig of the Forever Heavenly weekend. Celebrating 18 years of the Heavenly Recordings record label, all the major artists who are currently, formerly, or forever Heavenly – including Edwyn Collins, Doves, the Magic Numbers, the Manic Street Preachers, and Beth Orton – played sets at the Southbank Centre, like one big happy musical family.

But it was left to Saint Etienne to bring the weekend mini-season to a close, and they played a show more than worthy of their headline status. Supported by label mates Dot Allison and The Little Ones, the trio and their gang of long-standing musicians blew the roof off the place, and bounced their way seamlessly through new songs and old hits, the audience loving every minute if the rapturous reception was anything to go by.

The stage was effectively (and traditionally for an Et gig) low-tech with only an old-school projector beaming static images onto a white screen, letting the music doing the talking. And while Bob and Pete stood in the shadows, the divine Miss Cracknell shimmied in the spotlight, waving her feather boa, wiggling her hips, chatting to the audience between songs, and defiantly encouraging them up to the front of the stage, against the security guards’ wishes.

Opening with This is Tomorrow from their acclaimed Royal Festival Hall film of the same name, fan favourites such as Nothing Can Stop Us, Who Do You Think You Are, and Like A Motorway were nestled in-between the soon to be released Burnt Out Car, and a ‘disco dolly’ version of Sylvie. The songs sounded fantastic, and the band had loyal fans young and old jumping in the aisles whooping with delight, the atmosphere electric, charged with much excitement.

Ending with their biggest hit to date, He’s On The Phone, and exiting twenty minutes early (the naughty tykes), the Ets bounded off stage into the night, leaving us wanting more. Unfortunately, the second encore never came, but for those all too brief 70 minutes last night, we had truly been in Etienne heaven.

La Trouvaille, London

Saturday, August 23rd, 2008

We spent another rare Saturday in London today. Why so rare? As both of us commute from Suffolk or Essex every weekday, we don’t really want to spend weekends riding the trains, too, especially as they’re normally full of day trippers and noisy travellers going to the football, heading to the shops, or taking in a show.

But today, day trippers we were, as we had a lunchtime appointment celebrating a friend’s birthday. As her mum is French, Emilie had chosen La Trouvaille in which to mark her 30th birthday, and with its light décor, and interesting lunch menu serving the ‘finest ingredients, and an extensive wine list from the south and southwest of France and Corsica in an upbeat but relaxed environment,’ I can see why.

Sitting in the dining room upstairs (which we had to ourselves as there were 23 of us) with its deco-esque panelled mirrors, black iron fireplaces, and stripped and polished floorboards, it was like sitting in someone’s grand front room. With the sash windows open to let the summer still air in, and the flowerboxes full of brightly-coloured pansies (and reflected in the window boxes opposite), the whole place exudes a laid back, relaxing, and very French atmosphere.

The staff are genuinely French, and from bringing the arrival drinks, serving the menus and food, topping up the copious amounts of wine, to clearing the tables after we’d eaten, they were polite, courteous, and more than accommodating. The food was exemplary, too. The chicken pate and toast was more than up to expectations (the only criticism being that there could have been more toast, but that’s true of most restaurants), and the guinea fowl stuffed with halloumi cheese, marjoram, and tomato in a beetroot sauce with curly kale was deliciously tender.

Three of us picked one each of the trio of desserts, and I can say that if you choose either of the chocolate mousse, crème brulée, or selection of cheeses, you’ll enjoy them. The price was good too; at £20 a head for the three courses (or £16.50 for two courses), it was all very reasonable. In true French or continental style, it was also one of the longest lunches I’ve had for a long time; we ate, chatted, and drank for over four hours.

Open Monday to Saturday from 12.00pm to 3.30pm for lunch, and 6.00pm to 11.00pm for dinner, and situated at 12A Newburgh Street (a stone’s throw away from Carnaby Street and Oxford Circus Tube) La Trouvaille comes highly recommended.

QI

Thursday, June 5th, 2008

Everything is smaller in real-life than on TV. Or at least that’s the way it seemed this evening at a recording of the popular BBC comedy panel quiz, QI. A little shabbier and makeshift, too, with screens hung from poles and curtains, but the set soon comes to life when the lights are turned on, and the seats are sat in by Stephen Fry and his celebrity guests.

We’d been warned that we may queue at the London Studios for an age and then not even get in to see the recording, but as we grasped our barcoded passes close, it seemed ever likely that we’d see the merry banter between quizmaster and panellists. After just over an hour, we were given the green light, and as we filed into the studio, we waited for the fact guessing and telling to start in front of us.

Not a large studio by any means, the QI space could be the one used for a whole host of BBC-contracted programmes, and while aisle-side seats guaranteed us a good view, many people weren’t so lucky and were turned away at the top of the stairs. Too bad for them – we had a good (and free) couple of hours out, and enjoyed being part of a live TV recording audience.

Stephen Fry was, as always, the autocratic ringmaster, and among his charges tonight were impressionist Ronni Ancona (best-known for her work with Alistair McGowan); comedian and comic actor David Mitchell; and the ever-suffering Alan Davies, who has been in every show of every series since it started in 2003. The regular viewers among you will realise there’s one chair empty at this point, and to be fair, the Pudsey bears nestled in the centre of the set’s logo should have given us clues to the fourth celebrity panellist.

We’d chanced upon the Children In Need special, and once the recording had started, the life-size Pudsey bear took his seat in the vacant chair, waving madly as the mascot for the BBC’s flagship fund-raising show. He was soon to be ousted, though, as a distinctive Irish voice boomed from behind the curtain, and its owner strode onto the stage. That’s right – Eurovision and broadcasting legend Sir Terry Wogan completed the behind the desk line-up.

What followed was two hours of madcap fun, with answers beginning with the letter ‘F’ for ‘Family’. Discussions and jokes which focused on such diverse subjects as masturbation, old wives’ tales, picture postcards, and Eurovision were batted back and forth across the studio floor, with much innuendo and rudeness. Obviously more heightened than what is seen on TV, the smut even roped in Sir Terry, but he gave as good as he got, and was a more than willing contestant.

As befits the game where none of the comedy panellists is expected to answer any questions (or if they do give a wrong answer, it mustn’t be boringly wrong), the responses were both funny and playful, ensuring the audience laughed in all the right places. It will be interesting to see which questions get edited out for the broadcast programme of 30 minutes which will air in early November on Children In Need telethon night, but I suspect the more risqué stuff will stay on the cutting room floor.

But, naturally, the quite interesting stuff will stay.